In the first part of this article, titled Love after Death: The Beautiful World of Mourning Jewelry, we gave readers an introduction to mourning jewelry. We talked about the historical climate in which it sprung and highlighted the different features that made mourning jewelry appealing. In this article, we extend the topic and go into further detail about one of the most fascinating aspects of mourning jewelry: hairwork.
Hair: A Construction Material With Longevity
During the Victorian era, locks of hair were very popular and symbolic in nature. Hair from children, loved ones, and the deceased were kept, exchanged, and made into antique jewelry. One has to remember that during this period photos were very rare, and only the wealthy elite could afford to have portraits done of their family members. Therefore hair offered a sentimental keepsake that survived the death of an individual.
It was common for bereaved members of the family to keep locks of hair in small jars, books, or lockets as they served as a pleasant reminder of a loved one. Hair was a keepsake and construction material that did not degrade over time. For example, a lock of Beethoven’s hair, cut from his head in 1827 shortly before his funeral survived until 1994. In 1994 the lock was sold through Sotheby’s, after which pathologists discovered that the composer’s cause of death was due to lead poisoning (Source). Notwithstanding, hair’s longevity (in combination with the sentimental value individuals attributed to it) continued to be one of the main reasons it was used by jewelers in this time.
Hairwork in Antique Jewelry
Large wigs fell out of fashion during the 18th century. However, there still existed many artisans who had the skill and craftsmanship of working with hair. One source reports that in the mid-19th century, 50 tons of hair was imported to jewelers in the U.K. for hairwork pieces. So besides being fashionable, it gave people a job. The socioeconomic climate of 19th century Europe paved the way for hairwork as being used in all types of fine estate jewelry, and even antique wedding sets.
Hairwork in jewelry was used in a time when death rates were high. Disease, unsanitary conditions, and global skirmishes made death a daily occurrence. Its reminder was everywhere people went, affecting both the norms and zeitgeist of its citizens. Following the onset of World War I, the popularity of mourning jewelry began to fade, as individuals didn’t want to think so much about the subject. Nevertheless, the subject remains an interesting time in human-kind’s history. One that should be remembered with grace.
Antique Jewelry 